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Why You Should Choose a Natural Sunscreen for Your Health & the Environment

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10 min read
Summary

There are many factors to consider when making a sunscreen purchase. Spray or squeeze? Low SPF or high SPF? Regular sunscreen or mineral sunscreen? Discover the differences in sunscreens and why you may want to consider natural sunscreens for your health as well as the health of the environment.

By Annmarie Gianni, Founder of Annmarie Skin Care. This article concludes with a link to a product that Annmarie created that utilizes the best practices discussed in the article.

When looking for sun protection, more people than ever are looking for natural sunscreens without harmful chemicals and irritants. In fact, the natural sun protection products market is projected to bring in nearly $1 billion by 2030. But natural and organic sunscreens still only make up about 5–7% of the total sun care market. So what do you need to know about sunscreen to help you make the best choice for yourself and your family?

Chemical Sunscreens vs. Physical Sunscreens

For many years now, people have been categorizing sunscreens into two groups — chemical and physical. Chemical sunscreens use man-made chemicals to reduce sun damage by absorbing UV rays.

Physical sunscreens, on the other hand, are made with natural elements and are said to block or scatter UV rays so they never penetrate the skin in the first place.

The Problem with Chemical Sunscreens

Studies have shown that a number of the ingredients found in chemical sunscreens may be detrimental to your health and have a negative impact on the environment as well. Let’s look at some of the most commonly found chemicals in sunscreens, and why you might want to think twice before rubbing one into your skin.

Avobenzone

First discovered in the 1970s, avobenzone is one of the most widely used active ingredients in chemical sunscreens. It’s regulated as an organic, broad-spectrum UV filter.

Research has shown that the byproducts of avobenzone can cause allergic reactions and may also have hormone-disrupting effects.

One study examining sunscreen use and blood plasma concentrations showed that the body absorbs avobenzone at amounts nine times beyond the FDA threshold of 0.5 nanograms per milliliter (ng/mL). This threshold was exceeded even after a single day of sunscreen application.

Oxybenzone

Pregnant woman on summer at swimming pool
iStock.com/NandoMartinez

Oxybenzone is frequently seen as a chemical of concern by doctors and researchers. It’s readily absorbed through the skin in significant amounts and was found in the blood of 97% of Americans tested. This is concerning because oxybenzone has been linked to allergic reactions, hormone disruption, and cell damage.

One study found that 24% of breast milk sampled contained detectable amounts of ozybenzone. And another recent paper from the Journal of Reproductive Toxicology suggests that pregnant women who use sunscreen containing oxybenzone may put their child at a higher risk of developing a birth defect known as Hirschsprung’s disease.

The American Academy of Pediatrics advises parents to avoid using sunscreens containing oxybenzone on children if at all possible. And although US sunscreen manufacturers are allowed to use it in concentrations up to 6%, the European Commission has recently published preliminary opinions suggesting that oxybenzone is unsafe in concentrations higher than 2.2%.

Homosalate

Homosalate is frequently used in sunscreens for its ability to absorb short-wave UVB rays.

It’s been implicated for its endocrine-disrupting effects, raising concerns that it could contribute to breast and other hormonal cancers. Although it’s allowed by the FDA in concentrations up to 15%, homosalate is not currently recognized as a safe sunscreen ingredient.

In 2021, the European Union’s Scientific Committee for Consumer Safety released an opinion stating they believe homosalate is not safe in amounts up to 10% when used as a UV filter, but only up to 0.5%.

Octinoxate

non-toxic for ecosystem protect our corals skincare cosmetic bleaching coral reefs
iStock.com/ipeggas

Octinoxate is what’s known as a cinnamate, a classification of UVB sunscreens related to cinnamon oil. Cinnamates are absorbed rapidly into the skin and may show up in blood, urine, and breast milk. Although octinoxate is allowed in concentrations up to 7.5%, when combined with other chemical UV filters like avobenzone, it may actually cause these particles to break down and generate harmful free radicals rather than protect against them. And both in vitro and in vivo studies have raised suspicions that octinoxate is an endocrine disruptor. Octinoxate has also been linked to allergic reactions in some individuals.

And — as if you needed another reason to watch out for this chemical — in 2021, both Hawaii and the Florida Keys banned sunscreens containing octinoxate due to their toxic effect on marine life.

Octisalate

Octisalate is a chemical derivative of salicylic acid that’s commonly used in sunscreens. In a recent study with five other chemical sunscreen ingredients, octisalate showed an absorption rate 10 times that of the threshold allowed for in the study. While an amount of 0.5 ng/mL was designated by the FDA as safe with a low risk of cancer, octisalate blood levels were consistently between 4.6 and 5.8 ng/mL regardless of the use of spray or squeeze sunscreen.

Octocrylene

Another “O” to be wary of in chemical sunscreens is a compound known as octocrylene. It’s used for its ability to absorb UVA and UVB radiation. However, octocrylene is a known photosensitizer which means that when exposed to UV light, it can increase the production of free radicals in neighboring cells. Emergent data has also revealed that this chemical accumulates in marine life and can cause cellular dysfunction in coral.

Although it’s approved by the FDA in concentrations under 10%, researchers petitioned to have octocrylene sunscreens removed from the market in 2021. This call came after a recent study found that benzophenone can accumulate in sunscreens containing octocrylene over time — suggesting that octocrylene degrades into benzophenone, which is a carcinogenic endocrine disruptor.

Retinyl Palmitate

Retinyl palmitate (also known as retinol palmitate) is a chemical compound made from vitamin A and palmitic acid. According to FDA data and research from the National Toxicology Program, retinyl palmitate may speed the development of skin tumors and lesions when applied to the skin in direct sunlight. And although this finding has been affirmed by the NTP’s Board of Scientific Counselors, the FDA has still not concluded its follow-up studies, which are intended to assess whether this chemical has a carcinogenic effect on humans.

The Benefits of Physical or Natural Sunscreens

The risks associated with chemical sunscreens are numerous, so it’s easy to see why more and more people are interested in natural sunscreen options.

Many dermatologists and other skin care experts now recommend using so-called “physical” sunscreens, which are considered safer options because they offer broad-spectrum protection and lack hormone-disrupting risks. Two of the best-known minerals used in natural sunscreens are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.

Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide Sunscreens

Aussie mums helps her daughter apply natural sunscreen
iStock.com/LouiseBeaumont

When formulating natural sun protection, the highest priorities should be broad-spectrum protection and safety. It’s important to offer protection from both UVA and UVB rays, along with protection from free radicals, which cause premature aging.

Zinc oxide has been used as sun protection for a long time. It offers broad-spectrum protection, shielding you from both UVB rays, which cause sunburn, and UVA rays, which penetrate more deeply and may be more dangerous in terms of causing skin cancer.

Though titanium dioxide works in a similar manner in providing broad-spectrum protection, its safety isn’t as well-documented as zinc’s. Zinc is an essential mineral that we actually need in our bodies for optimal function. And zinc is the only active sunscreen ingredient approved by the FDA for infants under six months.

A number of studies have demonstrated the superiority of zinc over other types of sunscreens. Here’s a small sample:

  • Researchers tested zinc oxide and found it offered broad-spectrum UV protection, and was “photostable,” meaning it didn’t alter in dangerous ways when exposed to UV rays.
  • In 2000, researchers compared zinc oxide with titanium dioxide for their abilities to weaken UVA radiation. They found that zinc oxide provided superior protection against long-wave, damaging UVA rays.
  • Then, in 2001 researchers compared zinc oxide to titanium dioxide and found that zinc demonstrated “superior protection” compared to titanium dioxide against long-wave UVA radiation and was less “white” at a given concentration in the formula.
  • In Sunscreens by the Cosmetic Science and Technology Series, researchers reported that, while titanium dioxide is an excellent UVB blocker, zinc oxide offers broader protection as a UVA and UVB block.

There has been concern recently about nanoparticles in sunscreen specifically referring to zinc oxide (ZnO) or titanium dioxide (TiO₂) particles that are engineered to be smaller than 100 nanometers to make them transparent or less white on the skin, improving cosmetic appeal.

Studies on titanium dioxide and zinc oxide in Europe as well as in Australia generally show that nanoparticles do not penetrate healthy, intact skin to reach viable skin layers or enter the bloodstream. However, broken or damaged skin, such as from sunburn or abrasions, may theoretically increase penetration, though evidence is limited. When nanoparticles are used in spray or powder formulations, there’s a potential inhalation risk, especially with titanium dioxide.

Additional Concerns with Spray-On Sunscreens

Protecting a child with suntan lotion!
iStock.com/skynesher

Spray-on sunscreens have become very popular in modern cosmetics — and the appeal is understandable. The quick and easy application is favored for hard-to-reach areas or wriggling, resistant children. But the truth is that these aerosolized sunblocks may pose more risk than convenience.

Too thin a layer of sunscreen is a primary reason that chemical or physical sunscreens may not be particularly effective — and this is an especially pronounced problem for spray-on sunscreens. Researchers from Australia concluded that even a light breeze is enough to significantly reduce the effective coverage of sunscreen sprays — so much so that an entire bottle may not be enough to provide adequate protection.

Another concern with spray-on sunscreens is inhalation. The ultrafine particles of aerosol sprays can travel deep into the lungs and may have the potential to cause serious damage. Many sunscreen sprays have now been discovered to be contaminated with benzene — a cancer-causing compound that federal regulators don’t require testing for.

In July of 2021, Johnson & Johnson issued a voluntary recall of specific brands of aerosol sunscreens. The FDA also recommends using other types of sun protection like a natural sunscreen.

What About SPF?

SPF, sun protection concept. Sunburn man back hands on shoulders. Applying Sun Cream  in form of the sun and shield.
iStock.com/VictoriiaZinovieva

Many of us have come to consider the SPF, or “sun protection factor,” carefully when choosing a sunscreen. The higher the number, the more protection, right? The thing is, SPF only refers to protection from UVB rays. Because they’re responsible for sunburn, we might think that’s the only protection we need.

Yet, UVA rays are considered even more dangerous, as they penetrate the skin more deeply and are linked to skin cancer. But SPF does not measure a sunscreen’s protection against UVA rays — only UVB rays.

To further explain — the SPF is a measurement of the difference between the amount of sunlight that causes redness in sunscreen-protected skin, and the amount that causes redness in unprotected skin. A sunscreen with an SPF of 15 theoretically gives you 15 times the minutes to stay out before you burn.

For example, if you usually burn in 10 minutes and you apply an SPF 15 product, you can stay out for 150 minutes.

There are some problems with this equation, though. It makes people believe that an SPF 30 would allow them to remain twice as long in the sun as an SPF 15. In truth, an SPF 15 blocks about 93% of UVB rays, while an SPF 30 blocks about 97%, and an SPF 50 about 98%. So going higher and higher doesn’t necessarily create more protection after a certain point.

In addition, these numbers have nothing to do with UVA rays, so people who slather on an SPF 50 and stay in the sun for hours are likely to suffer even more severe skin damage if they don’t have a “broad spectrum” sunscreen that protects from both UVA and UVB rays.

Studies just don’t support the idea that, past a certain point, a higher SPF provides more protection. In addition, high SPF products are often made with greater percentages of chemical ingredients, which may be linked to hormone disruption, trigger allergic reactions, and potentially expose you to more free-radical damage.

Third-Party Sunscreen Guides

Many people believe that government agencies like the Food and Drug Administration will protect them from unsafe products. But oftentimes, these agencies do not require manufacturers to test their products for contamination.

For the most up-to-date and comprehensive analysis of the chemicals commonly found in sunscreens, take a look at the Environmental Working Group’s Annual Sunscreen Report. The EWG has a long-standing record of working to educate consumers and hold both manufacturers and regulatory agencies accountable as they reform dysfunctional chemical safety laws.

Their annual Guide to Sunscreens evaluates products based on a combination of ingredient hazard and efficacy ratings. In it, you can find rankings and recommendations based on publicly available information.

Bottom Line — Protect Your Skin

There’s no doubt that UV exposure increases the risk for skin cancer and accelerates the appearance of aging. A healthy skin care regimen should include protection. We believe we’ve found the best of all worlds with this all-natural formula:

  • Zinc oxide is still considered the safest option for sunscreens. It’s the only sunscreen recommended by the FDA for babies. It offers superior broad-spectrum protection against both UVA and UVB rays and helps decrease the risk of skin cancer and early skin aging caused by the sun.
  • Antioxidants neutralize environmental stressors. Part of the reason UV rays damage skin is that they create damaging stressors. Using ingredients like vitamin E and buriti fruit oil that are chock-full of antioxidants protects the skin against environmental stressors. And, to boot, they will give the look of clarified, brighter skin.
  • Natural protection: When you apply sunscreen, you have a golden opportunity to add some nourishment as well as protection to your skin. Sunflower oil is a good source of beta-carotene and helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Lavender has been shown in studies to help calm and soothe skin, reducing the appearance of redness.
  • Natural soothers help calm skin when it’s overexposed, allowing it to stay comfortable. This includes ingredients that have a natural ability to soothe, like pumpkin seed and hemp seed oil, nourishing and visibly enhancing your skin’s glow. Hemp oil may help reduce pain, swelling, and redness while helping to restore moisture to the sunburn area. And pumpkin seed oil can be used topically to heal and soothe dry skin — without causing irritation — and promote quick healing.
  • Natural moisturizers keep skin hydrated and healthy. The stronger and more cohesive your skin is, the better it’s able to resist UV damage. Hydration is a key part of this process, as dry skin is likely to crack and flake, making skin more vulnerable to UV damage and premature aging.
Editor’s Note: Hopefully, this article gives you some insight into how to safely and healthfully protect your skin from the sun — and what kinds of ingredients to look for (and avoid) in sunscreens. Annmarie Gianni, the author of this article, created a sunscreen that makes use of the “best practices” she describes. To find out more about it, or to order her natural sunscreen for yourself, click here. (Disclaimer: Annmarie Gianni’s Sun Love contains a small amount of organic beeswax, which may present ethical concerns for the bees involved.)

If you want to make your own DIY natural vegan sunscreen, here’s a great nontoxic sunscreen recipe.

Tell us in the comments:

  • Do you use sunscreen when you spend time outdoors?
  • Do you prefer chemical or natural sunscreens?
  • Have you ever made your own sunscreen?

Feature Image: iStock.com/AnastasiiaKorotkova

Read Next:

  • Like me .Plus I know somebody she is 107 years old and never used sunscreen she never had skin cancer

  • I am not using sunscreen and living in Australia .Myself 71 when I tried for the first time in my life my skin had very bad reaction and for one week I felt like I was poisoned.And my husband sport teacher never used.

  • It’s unfortunate that the article describes all the dangers of conventional sunscreen then links to her own sunscreen that she charges $50 for 1.7 ounces. How completely preposterous to charge that much for such a small amount. Even the discounted price of $37.50 is ridiculous. Who is going to pay that? However, I do appreciate the link to the DIY sunscreen in which the article informs the reader that carrot seed oil has an spf of approximately 30. That can be purchased on amazon for quite a reasonable price.

  • I never use sunscreens.
    I’m in the sun only when it’s not very hot.
    We need to receive direct sunlight in the skin to have Vit.D.

  • Many of us live in locations where you have no sun and don’t wear shorts. Please – I’m curious what your credentials are to have such important kowledge for us all.

  • Titanium dioxide may not be a good choice — “ The International Agency for Research on Cancer classifies titanium dioxide as possibly causing cancer in humans due to potential exposure through inhalation. For this reason, powdered and spray formulations containing titanium dioxide are a concern for health. Zinc oxide may also be inhaled when used in spray and powder products.”

  • Total bs! You don’t need sunscreen and skin cancer rates have exploded since the recommendation to use them. Only UVA rays can be harmful. How do you think we create vitamin D? With the UVB rays combined with the cholesterol in your skin. And guess what happens when you have very low vitamin D? It raises your chances of getting cancer. Practice sensible sun exposure wearing light clothing and a hat at high sun hours. Exposing your arms and legs in the morning or late afternoon for 10 to 40 minutes 3 times a week will give you the high levels of vitamin D you need to stay healthy. Don’t wash off the UVB rays too quickly. If you shower after only use water. But you can shower with soap before. If you want a sunscreen, use your own skin. Train your skin to tan 20 minutes per side per day. You will tan and your own tan will protect you from harmful rays. Never wear sunglasses as your eyes receive signals from the light which help protect you from burning. Use common sense and don’t over expose.

  • I’m so allergic to sunscreen. I get instant hayfever. Eyes pour like I’m crying and get itchy so I’ve been using Zinc based sunscreen for a long time as I live in a climate that doesn’t do winter and has high UV, and even some brands that say they’re zinc still get at me. Moogoo has been good also Nutrogena. I use Retinyl palmitate, amazing wound healing and skin repair but I use it at night due to the sun sensitive thing. It’s used in hospitals for skin grafts and wound treatment. I hope it’s not cancer causing!

  • I hope you continue to be blessed with good health, but being tan is a sign of damage. My mother loved the sun and it caught up with her later in life-not only severely damaged skin, but skin cancer that was painful to deal with.

  • I was wondering why the article didn’t mention coconut oil! Thank you for this!

  • Coconut oil has an spf rating of 8 and Tallo has a rating of 6 combined with bees wax and lavendar and nano zinc that doesn’t stay white, this is a beautiful ointment to use in the sun when you need it. DON’t Wear sunglasses so your skin knows to protect itself…..watch the sunrise and that helps too.

  • I never use sunscreen (only zinc oxide paste when surfing in tropical waters), and opt for clothing as my preferred option of protection, and strategically not spending time in the sun during peak sun hours and instead try to prioritize early morning or late afternoon sun rays…

  • I put a collagen-vit C gel, then 25 spf sunscreen on my face and neck before I go out. I wear a hat, shades and a scarf. I try to go out before 10 and after sunset if I’m being outdoorsy…. Hikes, yard work etc
    I seek shade. I’m no beach bunny I take Vit D supplement. Gotta protect our largest organ!

  • I have not used sunscreen for a very long long time. Found out about the dangers of them and that is it. In fact I do not use anything at all and have never gotten sunburned. The key for me is spend time in the sun and enjoy it. Guess what I get a tan every year in summer. I am also fair skinned and back in the day as a child I did get sunburned. Remove the fear associated with this topic. Just love the sun and the sunshine and it will bless you back. I can testify to that.

  • The link to Ann Marie’s sunsreen is in the Editor’s note at the end of the article.

  • I only apply sunscreen if I am going on a Sunny hike or going to the beach. I do use zinc or titanium not chemicals. I do not need it in my yard, which is almost totally shady. I do wear a Sun hat and long sleeved shirt and long pants (no shorts).

  • I apply sunscreen/moisturizer to my face everyday. I’ll apply it to my arms and chest if I’m gonna be out in the garden for awhile and then if I’m in a swimsuit, I cover my entire body. I’m fair complected and freckle when I burn and it’s not pleasant at all.

  • Is this safe to use with kidney disease? I have been advised to avoid zinc. Would love to try this natural product. Now I wear protective clothing and avoid sun. Thank you.

  • Neither do I and my vitamin D levels are great..!! Many old people turn grey and sickly from life no giving SUN….

  • Thanks for the information, I am of Mediterranean descent and have never needed to use a sunscreen as I have never had sunburn.

  • I hate using the natural ones I’ve tried because they make your skin look grey. Not a good look.

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